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15 April 2006
Belated Food Friday II: Easter Feasting, Upstairs and Down
This is the recreated Victorian Kitchen at Beaulieu, the ancestral home of the Dukes of Montagu. Being an English stately home, Beaulieu is pronounced Bew-lee, but of course you knew that. (Perhaps the thrashing French words get in the mouths of the Brits is a rebuke to the Norman Conquest.) It's one of the great houses saved from extinction by the entrepreneurial spirit of recent heirs, who have turned these fascinating piles into everything from rock concert venus to full-fledged golfing resorts — and of course, locations for film shoots.
The Beaulieu website indicates a heavy emphasis on the life of the house in the Victorian era, presumably because detailed archives of the period are particularly well-preserved. Thus the kitchen, and thus a sampling of typical menus served both upstairs and down. Here is what the family would have had on Easter Sunday:
Breakfast
Sausages
Bacon and EggsLuncheon
Shoulder of Lamb
Beef Fillets French-style
Roast Chicken
Rhubarb Tart
Jelly
PuddingDinner
Royal Consommé
Grilled Sole with Tartare Sauce
Lamb Cutlets with Peas
Roast Beef
Bordeaux Pigeons
Plum Pudding
And here is what would have been on offer in Servants' Hall:
Roast Mutton
Pork
Boiled Beef
Plum Pudding
The thing that strikes me most about both menus is that nearly everything would have been more or less the same color, including the rhubarb and, most likely, the peas.
But that was then. Today's guardians of the patrimony are a savvy bunch, and present-day onsite hospitality — rent-a-castle specializes in weddings, birthdays, conferences, and in all likelihood bar mitvahs too (Woburn Abbey notes that kosher meals can be ordered) — tends to the same kind of first-class food you'd find in any cosmopolitan setting.
Why this sudden interest in Beaulieu and the rest? My own household has been escaping from a world that is too much with us by gorging on Masterpiece Theatre DVDs. We're now about halfway through Brideshead Revisited, which sparked an interest in Castle Howard...and well, I just let the links take me from there.
Posted by EDN on April 15, 2006 at 06:21 PM in Asides | Permalink
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Comments
Notice the almost total lack of vegetables on the menu. There probably were some gray, sodden offerings aside from the peas, and certainly potatoes. I never had a meal in Britain that didn't include potatoes--except maybe a breakfast of cereal. The family I stayed with ordered up 28 pounds of potatoes weekly.
And yet, I have very fond memories of English food. Once a year I try to make a roast beef with Yorkshire pudding done the right way. The right way means you'd might as well inject beef tallow directly into your arteries. The thin batter of egg, milk and flour is poured into a smoking hot pan of beef drippings. While it bakes and puffs up like a popover, it also absorbs all the molten fat. Urghh!
The nicest thing is being awakened by a friend with a pleasant English accent and a hot cup of sugared, milky tea. I really should try to do that more often, instead of the usual caffeine jolt from coffee. I'll train my husband in the accent.
Posted by: Chiaroscuro | Apr 15, 2006 9:50:31 PM
hey ellen!
where's jill these days?
just wonderin...
Posted by: skippy | Apr 15, 2006 10:50:48 PM
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